Discover the Cocal on Trinidad's dramatic east coast

Manzanilla and Mayaro: one long, palm-fringed beach runs into the other to shape Trinidad's east coast. Developed as coconut estates, the plantations have given this sea-coast its distinctive character.

Driving along with the sea on one side, the swamp on the other, it's difficult not to feel soothed by the mesmerising pattern of rank upon serried rank of coconut palms, all bending toward the sea. This endless stretch of trees is what is called "the cocal".

Coconut is no longer a high-profile crop, but the plantations are now self-perpetuating as falling coconuts sprout and grow. In between the coconuts, small holdings produce watermelons and vegetable cash crops.

But there's more to Manzanilla than coconuts, of course. The coastal strip borders the ecologically sensitive Nariva wetlands, now listed internationally as a Ramsar site, an area to be conserved as a wildlife habitat. The swamp has long provided its human inhabitants with oysters, crabs and Trinidad's legendary cascadura which, according to local beliefs, once eaten, ensures that you will always return to Trinidad.

Offshore, village fishermen in typical pirogues — the Amerindian piraga was a wooden longboat made from planks — bring in catches of ocean fish which come to spawn in the marshy river mouths. Both the Manatee and the Leatherback Turtle are found off these shores.

The heart of the Nariva wetlands is the Bush Bush sanctuary, watered by the Nariva River which wanders through the swamp creating ponds and lagoons and rich marsh ecosystems nurturing tall moriche palms, numerous birds including parrots, Red Howler Monkeys, snakes such as the Anaconda, Manatee (sea cows) and Caiman (alligators). The Nariva River drains into the Atlantic Ocean.

Further south, the Ortoire and Lizard Rivers also meander through the Mayaro region toward the Atlantic. Mayaro has grown from a plantation and fishing village into an oil town. The international oil company Amoco drills for oil offshore; at night, its red flares stand out luridly against the black horizon.

While the character of Mayaro has changed considerably since it became a commercial centre for oil workers — acquiring facilities such as telephone systems that put it in touch with the international community — it still retains the character of a fishing village and holiday haven for those who are mainly interested in its fresh sea breeze and waves rolling in as far as the eye can see. Hotel facilities as well as guest houses are available.