Image by caribbeanfreephoto via Flickr

Port of Spain, the capital of Trinidad and Tobago, sprawls from the Gulf of Paria back into the foothills of the rugged Northern Range. When it became the capital in 1757, it was a muddy little seaport. Now, it is one of the busiest commercial centres in the Caribbean, and a hotbed of entrepreneurial and artistic activity as well.

The heart of the city is the downtown area, with the Queen’s Park Savannah at the northern edge and the Brian Lara Promenade to the south, linked by Frederick Street. The best way to get a feel for the city is on foot: wander through the hustle and bustle of early-morning vendors, shop for handmade leather goods or fabrics of every conceivable type, for fruit and vegetables, cheap CDs, cassette tapes and souvenirs. When your feet protest, the Promenade is a pleasant place to sit and survey the scene. You might even find yourself drawn into an impromptu game of outdoor chess.

Between the city and the hills is the Savannah, Port of Spain’s most popular “liming place”. At almost any time of day or night, there’s sure to be something going on there. You can watch cricket or football from the shade of one of the Savannah’s magnificent old trees: a spreading samaan, perhaps, or a scarlet flamboyant, or maybe a fairytale pink poui. Joggers puff around the perimeter; coconut vendors hawk ice-cold nuts from the backs of their trucks. On the Savannah’s southern flank, the grounds host the cultural shows and competitions that take place throughout the year. This is also the site designated for the new Carnival Arts Centre.

A row of mansion houses known as the Magnificent Seven lines the western side of the Savannah. Along the northern flank, the Botanic Gardens and the Zoo adjoin the stately President’s House with its beautifully landscaped garden, most of which is open to the public. A stroll around the Savannah at dusk, with a stop or two to sample some corn soup, boiled corn or phulouri (an Indian snack), is the quintessential Port of Spain experience.

The city offers less obvious rewards as well, in some of its residential neighbourhoods. Not far from the Savannah, the suburbs St Clair and Woodbrook boast colonial mansions and lovely old “gingerbread” houses, with their froth of fancy fretwork. Woodbrook is the lunchtime haunt of office workers, offering a wide range of cuisines from cordon bleu to fast food.

Further west, St James is the (other) city that never sleeps. During the Carnival season, St James is alive with the sound of steelbands; at Hosay, the area resounds to the throb of tassa drumming. The Western Main Road, which cuts through the middle of St James, is a busy shopping area by day and a food feast by night. Lined with street vendors selling corn soup, roti and doubles, fried chicken take-aways and ice-cream parlours, and lots of bars with loud music, this is a lively, all-year-round nightspot, now being developed as a “renaissance” district.

There’s plenty of public transport around Port of Spain, so it’s easy to get about. The “maxi-taxi” stands near the Brian Lara Promenade are the hub of minibus routes throughout the city and beyond. Route taxis (with “H” registration plates) will pick up or drop off passengers along most of the main roads for a few dollars. Just check with the driver that your destination is on his route. Beyond the Brian Lara Promenade, on South Quay, is the big City Gate hub, from where buses and maxi-taxis serve every corner of the islan