Trinidad eco escapes and adventures
Nowhere else in the Caribbean is like Trinidad. That’s not hyperbole — the island’s unique environment combines a South American continental legacy with Caribbean island features. (Click here for an in depth look at Trinidad’s natural history.) Tropical rainforest cloaks the north, central, and southern mountain ranges, from which waterfalls and rivers cascade. There are brackish mangrove swamps; sprawling savannahs; and coasts that meet four distinct bodies of water. Coral reefs are found off the northwest and northeast coasts, and have produced the arid islands off Chaguaramas. With a dizzying degree of biodiversity per square mile, thousands of species call these habitats home.
- Amphibians: 30+ species
- Birds: 400+ species (more than any other Caribbean island)
- Butterflies: 600+ species
- Fish: 400+ marine species and 40+ freshwater species
- Flowers: 2,100+ flowering plant species (almost 200 orchids)
- Mammals: 100+ recorded species (over 60 of them bats)
- Reptiles: 90+ species (including 40+ species of snake and 5 marine turtle species, among them the endangered giant leatherback)
- Trees: 370 species of trees (including native purpleheart, mora, and crappo).
Here, we’ll tell you how you can discover them. For eco adventures, book a registered tour operator or guide (see gotrinidadandtobago.com and visittobago.gov.tt). For easy day trips and sightseeing — and if you feel confident on the road — you could rent a vehicle, pick up a Discover T&T map, and go exploring on your own!
Each year between March and September (sometimes longer), you can see turtles nesting across the region. But Trinidad’s Grande Rivière serves as the second largest turtle nesting site in the world for the ancient and endangered leatherbacks. Green and hawksbill turtles also come up along the north and east coasts; Matura is another critical site. The turtles, their eggs, and their hatchlings are all vulnerable and legally protected.
FROM THE SEA, TO THE SEA
Nesting females return to the shores on which they were born each year, assiduously digging their nests before laying their eggs, camouflaging the area, and returning to the open sea. Six to eight weeks later, the hatchlings emerge and scamper through the sand to the shoreline. The females that survive to maturity will make the long trek back, to begin the cycle anew. Though they come ashore in greatest numbers late at night — and especially during the full moon — they also come ashore in the day, even at popular beaches.
Tour operators (and some hotels) can arrange necessary permits and access. They’ll surely tell you:
- to be quiet, and not to touch or disturb nesting turtles or hatchlings in any way
- not to use lights (including flash photography), and not to drive on nesting beaches — the weight of the vehicle can crush eggs buried in the sand.
HELP SAVE THE TURTLES
Turtles face a number of threats — illegal poaching, natural predators, indiscriminate fishing nets, sargassum seaweed, plastics and litter, disorienting artificial light (they follow the light of the moon). Contact the Turtle Village Trust (turtlevillagetrust.org, 638-5953/674-4213), an umbrella body for the islands’ leading turtle conservation groups — Nature Seekers; the Grande Rivière Nature Tour Guide Association; the Matura to Matelot (M2M) Network; the Fishing Pond Turtle Conservation Group; and SOS (Save our Sea Turtles Tobago). You can donate to their efforts, or adopt a turtle.
For the birds…
If you’re a birder — or just truly enjoy the natural world — you’ll enjoy these special places in the mountains and the wetlands. Peak bird-watching season is November–May, though you’ll never be short of sightings. Sir David Attenborough filmed many bird sequences from his acclaimed documentary The Trials of Life here in Trinidad. For more about birding in the islands, click here.
ASA WRIGHT NATURE CENTRE
You can spot nearly 170 species of birds at the 1,500 acre Centre, perched in the mountains of the Northern Range. This was once a working coffee, cocoa, and citrus plantation that was bought in 1947 by Dr Newcombe Wright and his wife Asa. The New York Zoological Society established a research station here in 1949, and after Newcombe’s death, Asa sold the land on condition that it remain a conservation area. The non-profit trust was set up in 1967, and the Centre named in her memory. Today, the Centre’s veranda, restaurant, and reception are open to day visitors, while guests at the eco lodge enjoy greater access to the estate, including Dunston Cave — perhaps the most easily accessible habitat for a colony of rare oilbirds anywhere in the world. There’s a gift shop, and also a freshwater pool on site. asawright.org, 667-4655
NARIVA SWAMP & BUSH-BUSH SANCTUARY
The local celebrity at this legally protected wetland — recognised in the 1996 Ramsar Convention as a one of international importance — is undoubtedly the rare endangered manatee (or sea cow), which can grow to 3m/10ft in length and 900kg/1,985lbs! Not to be outdone are the anacondas, anteaters, caimans, capuchin and red howler monkeys, cascadura, macaws, owls, parrots, porcupines, and toucans, among others. Too many of them are vulnerable or endangered. You will need a tour guide and permit to explore the swamp — by kayak or boat (in the wet season), or on foot in the dryer months.
POINTE-À-PIERRE WILD FOWL TRUST
Nearly 90 species have been recorded in this unique eco centre — the only one in the world located within an oil refinery complex — including the scarlet ibis, the rare blue and gold macaw, and five endangered waterfowl species. Visitors can see these beautiful birds up close in the enclosed breeding areas (thousands of birds have been bred and released back into the wild over the years), or watch free-roaming wildlife as they explore the Trust’s 32 hectares. Wooden walkways take you right around two freshwater lakes. There’s a learning centre and an eco lodge on site. Reservations are required to visit. papwildfowltrust.org, 658-4200 x 2512
WINSTON NANAN CARONI SWAMP & BIRD SANCTUARY
Like Nariva, this 60sq km (23sq miles) is a legally protected Ramsar site that’s home to anteaters, caimans, racoons, snakes, and some 100 species of birds — including Trinidad’s stunning national bird, the scarlet ibis. These creatures live in the tidal lagoons, marshland, and mangrove forest where the Caroni River, Madame Espagnole River, and Gulf of Paria meet. Boat and kayak tours are available, and typically depart about 4pm to catch the flocks of ibis coming back into the Sanctuary to roost.
YERETTE — HOME OF THE HUMMINGBIRD
Theo and Gloria Ferguson welcome bird-lovers into their home three times a day for tea, a tour, and the chance to get close to 14 species of hummingbirds — and many other bird species too! facebook.com/Yerettett, 663-2623
To the bat caves (at Tamana)
Massive colonies of bats — thousands from 12 different species — call the limestone cave systems in Mount Tamana (the highest of the Montserrat Hills) home. Each evening before dusk, they depart the caverns en masse. It is an exhilarating experience … unless you’re afraid of bats! Make sure to go with a reputable, experienced guide who can ensure both your safety and minimal impact on the natural environment.
To the sky — go zip-lining
A fairly recent and exhilarating addition to the range of activities at the Chaguaramas National Heritage Park is a series of seven zipline courses over Macqueripe Bay, and five canopy walks/net bridges. They’re open Tuesday–Sunday. Bikes are also available for rental. facebook.com/Trinidadzipitt, 303-7755
Hike to the mountains…
These are some of the island’s most popular hikes. Listed alphabetically, we’ve indicated where they are, roughly how long they’ll take, and whether they’re deemed gentle, intermediate, or intense (which should be tackled by advanced hikers only). Go with a reputable guide, and remember that old saying: take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints.
- Edith Falls (Chaguaramas): a 30–40 minute hike to a 76m/250ft waterfall. Gentle
- El Tucuche (Northern Range): Trinidad’s second tallest mountain. A gruelling hike to the summit (in fact, there are two peaks!) takes 2–4 hours via Hobal Trace in Maracas Valley. (Very) Intense
- Fondes Amandes (St Ann’s): the Community Reforestation Project provides forest tours that range from quick and gentle to more intermediate
- Madamas Bay (north coast): it’ll take you roughly 3 hours from Matelot or 5 hours from Blanchisseuse. A beach, river, waterfall, and turtles (in season) await. Intense
- Maracas Falls (Northern Range): 30–45 minute trek; Trinidad’s tallest waterfall (91m/299ft). Gentle
- Paria Bay (north coast): it’ll take you roughly 2 hours from Blanchisseuse to Turtle Rock then Cathedral Rock/Paria Arch. A pristine white sand beach, turtles (in season), and nearby waterfall are your reward. Also accessible via Brasso Seco. Intermediate
- Saut d’Eau (north coast): a 3-hour, downhill trek from Paramin brings you to the secluded beachfront. Gather your strength, because the ascent back up will test your mettle! Intense
- Rio Seco Falls (Salybia): part of the Matura National Park, a 45–60 minute hike brings you to the falls, and a natural swimming pool. Gentle
- Turure Water Steps (Cumaca): after about 60 minutes, you’ll be bathing in the pools at these unique natural limestone “steps”. Intermediate