Family-friendly fun in Trinidad

Chaguaramas

The Chaguaramas National Heritage Park in Trinidad’s northwestern peninsula is just 20 minutes from Port of Spain (with no traffic, of which there is a lot on weekends and public holidays). Home to the wondrous Tucker Valley, families share space with hikers, bikers, explorers, bird watchers, hashers, archers, and golfers all have their place in “Chag”, as it’s affectionately called. In addition to the emerald green waters of popular Macqueripe Bay (which is scheduled for upgrade works in 2018), the lush rain forests of the valley are crisscrossed with nature trails. Howler monkeys can be heard in the forest canopy and pairs of green parrots often pass. The Covigne River trail passes through nutmeg groves and along a tributary of the Cuesa River uphill through a gorge. Along the way, you will pass abandoned cocoa, coffee, and nutmeg plantations. The trail ends at a waterfall with a plunge pool.

Edith Falls is located in an abandoned cocoa estate nestled against the eastern side of Morne Catherine and overlooking the golf course. A fairly gentle hike, you will see stands of majestic bamboo, heliconias, rubber trees and fishtail palms, and hear red howler monkeys in the forest canopy along the trail. If you decide to hike on your own, inform the Chaguaramas Development Authority (225-4232, chaguaramas.com)

Recent development in Chag is not without controversy for those who fiercely want to preserve the natural environment, rustic charm, and tranquillity of this treasured heritage park. But that hasn’t deterred those who enjoy the area’s latest man-made attractions, including the 1,400ft of beachfront walkway known as the Boardwalk; gazebos are available for private get-togethers, while pedal-boat rides will keep the kids happy — as will the Five Islands Waterpark, and Safari Eco Park.

NOTE: If you decide to hike on your own, you must inform the Chaguaramas Development Authority (225-4232).

Zip-lining

In true Trini style, the excitement of zip-lining has been further amped up with views of both forest and sea. ZIP-ITT Adventure Park in Chaguaramas has seven lines (one passes over Macqueripe Beach) and five canopy walks (net bridges) among the trees of Tucker Valley, where you might spot a howler monkey or two as you zip by. TT$120 • 303-7755

Down de Islands (DDI)

Just off the northwest coast of Trinidad, this group of smaller islands have become beloved escape routes for the wealthy living along the peninsula. Many have holiday homes on one of the islands. In the distance you can see mountains — the nearby coastline of Venezuela. There are the Five Islands (Caledonia, Craig, Lenagan, Rock and Nelson, which was where East Indian immigrants were quarantined when they arrived by boat from 1845 onwards); Diego Islands (Carrera, and Constadt), Gaspar Grande, Gasparilo Island (aka Centipede), Monos, Huevos and Chacachacare (which was once a leper colony).
These islands were originally the ceremonial grounds of the First Peoples. The islands were later occupied by the Spanish who built forts, and even burnt and sank their ships here. Chacachacare has saltwater ponds, ruins and a still-functioning lighthouse that some claim has the tallest focal point in the world at 251m/823ft.

Pirogues and fishing boats leave from marinas along the coastline, where hundreds of yachts and speed boats are stored. On Gaspar Grande, the jetty at Point Baleine was once a whaling station. This is the home of the underground Gasparee caves, which are accessed via a staircase. Here you will find stalagmites and a still pool known as the Blue Grotto, with its ‘sunroof’, a hole in the rocks that allow sunlight into the cave.

Ziplining in Chaguaramas. Courtesy Zipitt

Ziplining in Chaguaramas. Courtesy Zipitt

Valencia Eco-resort

A 10-acre estate in the east in the foothills of the Northern Range (half-hour drive from the airport). Hundreds of fruit trees including the now rare balata, plus caimate, tamarind, sapodilla and cashew, to name a few; with attendant flocks of birds and butterflies. Enjoy aerobics, archery, basketball, cricket, volleyball, football, table tennis and billiards, plus a universal gym. Fish for tilapia in the pond, cook in an outdoor carat shed or take a cool dip in the river (or 2,000 square foot swimming pool). Also in the mix: peacocks, geese, parrots, guinea fowls, turkeys, ducks, tortoises, rabbits and monkeys. You can rent a fully furnished cabana (from studios to four-bedroom units) with a kitchen and deck. 731-6774

Fun Station, San Fernando

Children go a little crazy when they step in here and see bumper cars, carousels, mini bowling, plus rides and dozens of arcade games. Plus there’s laser tag. Just be prepared to spend, spend, spend… Open seven days a week, including public holidays. 653-4FUN

Arcades

Trincity Mall, MovieTowne, Gulf City, Chuck E Cheese restaurants in Chaguanas and San Fernando. For toys, games and gadgets, check toy stores in the malls and in all the major towns and cities.

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Angostura Museum and Barcant Butterfly Collection

The Barcant butterfly collection, the only one of its kind in the region, comprises more than 5,000 specimens (700 species, including the blue emperor) in a re-created tropical forest. Children will thrill at the sight of the butterflies and sounds of nature as they walk through the “mountains of the Northern Range”. Angostura acquired the collection in 1974 and it has been at the company’s compound (Eastern Main Road, Port of Spain) since. You can also book a tram tour of the Angostura factory, introducing you to the company’s history and making of their world-famous bitters and celebrated rums. Tours (two hours) are 9:30am and 1:30pm, Monday–Friday; advance booking required: 623-1841, betancr@angostura.com

Asa Wright Nature Centre

This 1,500-acre bird sanctuary in the Arima Valley is one of the first nature centres to be set up in the Caribbean, offering a chance to see dozens of hummingbirds, tanagers, honeycreepers, and bananaquits feeding up close. The main centre and guesthouse are located on a former cocoa-coffee-citrus plantation. Trails through the rainforest bring you close to all sorts of wildlife, from trapdoor spiders and woodpeckers to blue emperor (morpho) butterflies. Open 9am–5pm for day visits, with guided walks 10:30am–1:30pm. There are numerous waterfalls and caves nearby, and an overnight stay gives you the chance to see rare oil birds. Reservations required (667-4655), as is advance booking for accommodation (main house and cottages). There is buffet lunch in the dining room or a sandwich menu on the verandah. Entrance fee for non-residents of T&T: adults US$10; children 12 years and under US$6. Residents: adults TT$30; children TT$15.

Yerette: Home of the Hummingbird

For a more intimate experience of the hummingbird, spend a couple of hours at the home of Theo and Gloria Ferguson in Maracas, St Joseph. Their garden has a spectacular view of the Northern Range. Sit on the porch and enjoy juices, meals and pastries for breakfast, lunch or afternoon tea alongside purple honeycreepers and hummingbirds. Dozens of hummingbirds flit by, some a few inches away, as they sip from dozens of feeders and flowers. Theo is a knowledgeable host, with a collection of photos for sale, and a slide show about the tiny acrobats. 663-2623, yerettett.com

An Amethyst woodstar humminbird at Yerette. This tiny bird first appeared in Trinidad in 2015. Photo by Wendell Stephen Jay Reyes

An Amethyst woodstar humminbird at Yerette. This tiny bird first appeared in Trinidad in 2015. Photo by Wendell Stephen Jay Reyes

Caroni Bird Sanctuary

At the top of every birder’s list is the Caroni Swamp: the protected breeding grounds of the national bird, the scarlet ibis. Located a few miles outside of Port of Spain and just west of the airport, the swamp can be seen on the final approach before landing. Just off the highway you will find the boats parked up and waiting (adults TT$50, children $35). Most leave at 4pm. Within minutes the sound of cars fades and you enter the eerie silence of the swamp. Mangrove channels create a dramatic backdrop for the 100 species of birds that make their home here alongside snakes (boas) in trees, crabs and snails. Species spotted include the straight-billed woodcreeper, red cap mask cardinal, juvenile night heron, pigmy kingfisher, tropical screech, common potoo, flamingo, osprey, great grey heron, and the great egret. At dusk the sky is filled with streaks of red as hundreds of scarlet ibis return to roost in trees on an island in the middle of the swamp. For the serious birder, a private tour can be arranged with a reputable tour guide. 755-7826, caronibirdsanctuary.com

A Winston Nanan Caroni Swamp boat tour in central Trinidad. Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

A Winston Nanan Caroni Swamp boat tour in central Trinidad. Photo by Stephen Broadbridge

Pointe-à-Pierre Wildfowl Trust

This is an oasis of ponds surrounded by green forest, set within the sprawling grounds of an oil refinery complex. Home to rare ducks, water lilies and lotus blossoms, cormorants, caimans, parakeets and peacocks, researchers and birders can learn about efforts to re-introduce endangered wetland birds to their natural habitat. Small boats take you out on the two ponds, where you can photograph the whistling tree duck, kiskidee, purple gallinule, scarlet ibis, blue and gold macaw, wild muscovy duck, green heron, yellow-hooded blackbird, pied water tyrant, cardinal, ringed kingfisher, black skimmer, grey hawk, and the snakebird (or anhinga). A boardwalk along the first pond can be accessed by wheelchairs and baby strollers. An on-site learning centre houses a small Amerindian museum, and there is a full-service guesthouse with areas for retreats, corporate workshops and seminars. Advance bookings required. 658-4200 ext 2512, papwildfowltrust.org

Mud volcanos

These geological wonders can be found mainly in the south of the island.

  • Piparo: Also known as Morne Roche, this volcano last erupted in February 1997, spewing mud hundreds of feet in the air and forcing an evacuation of the area. Elevation: 111m/365ft, 425 acres.
  • Devil’s Woodyard (Indian Walk): Majestic teak trees line the road to the site. A paved walkway takes you straight to the dozen small cones from which grey mud bubbles up. Concrete huts with tables and benches and other seating make this is a great place for a picnic. Large playground at one end of the park.
  • Digity Trace (Debe): Rising 6m/20ft in the air, you can climb up surrounding paths to get a look inside the mouth. It is more active during the rainy season. A second volcano, flat in shape, is located a short distance away. For those willing to try, you can scoop up some and make a much-touted DIY beauty treatment — a mud mask…
  • Other volcanoes can be found at L’Eau Michel, Lagon Bouffe, Anglais Point, Erin, Chatam, Columbia Estate, Fullarton, Cedros, Galfa, Los Eros, Tabaquite, Cascadoux Trace, Manzanilla.
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Fort George

Built in 1804, this “virgin fort” (which never saw military action) offers a magnificent panoramic view from 335m (1,100ft) above sea level. On a clear day, you can see to south Trinidad, and west to Venezuela. Open 10am–6pm, admission free

Fort George, Trinidad. Photo by Chris Anderson

Fort George, Trinidad. Photo by Chris Anderson

San Fernando Hill

Considered sacred by the Warao of the Orinoco Delta, it is known as Naparima Hill by our First Peoples, who believe it is home to one of their supreme spirits and also to their ancestor-hero, the maker of the first canoe. From the top you have a superb view of the heavily populated southern capital and surrounding areas. With free admission, lots of parking, visitor facilities, benches, picnic huts and a play park, the hill is a popular liming spot for families and the top event venue in the second city. Ideal for a cool walk, a picnic, birthday party, wedding or reunion. Fitness enthusiasts enjoy the uphill run on evenings.

Zoology Museum at the University of the West Indies (St Augustine)

As expected for a hotbed of biodiversity, the Zoology Museum contains approximately 70,000 specimens of preserved animals — reptiles, amphibians, fish, insects, corals, crustaceans, and molluscs — with smaller collections of mammals and birds. The majority are from T&T, with the rest from around the region. The core of the collection came from the Imperial College of Tropical Agriculture, which was established in the 1920s and would later become the UWI. Among the many artefacts is a collection from the Banwari site in south Trinidad, which was excavated in 1969-70. Dating back to the period 6000–4350 BC, this site is the earliest human settlement in Trinidad and probably the Caribbean, based on the items found — hand-stones, grinding slabs, arrows, awls, needles, a probable weaving tool, and an axe. The oldest human skeleton ever found in the Caribbean was also unearthed, and Banwari Man is also on display at the museum.

La Brea Pitch Lake

The largest natural deposit of asphalt in the world, Trinidad’s Pitch Lake is deceptively boring looking from above — like a giant empty parking lot. But it’s what’s beneath that counts. This tar baby, nestled on the southwestern coast, is a natural wonder. Estimated to contain 10 million tonnes of asphalt, the Pitch Lake is one of the three largest in the world. Spanning 109 acres, the lake’s asphalt has been used to pave roads and airport runways. Pools formed from rain contain high levels of sulfur which are good for the skin and joints. An important aspect of earth’s history, the lake holds deep secrets about the formation of oil and gas. Artifacts from the First Peoples, for whom the lake was sacred, have been unearthed here; some can be viewed at the museum in the visitor centre where you can also ask for a tour guide.

The Pitch Lake. Photo courtesy TDC

The Pitch Lake. Photo courtesy TDC

Queen’s Park Savannah, Emperor Valley Zoo, and Botanical Gardens

This huge 260-acre park that is the crown jewel of the capital, and holds a very special place in the Trini heart. Sports, kite-flying, jogging, picnics in the Hollows are all popular for adults, children, and families.

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On the northern side, you will find the Emperor Valley Zoo (founded in 1947, tel: 622-5344) and the Botanical Gardens (established in 1820). Here you can relax among one of the oldest collections of exotic plants and trees in the Western Hemisphere. Children especially will enjoy seeing the zoo’s rare white Bengali tigers, lions and giraffes, and a chimpanzee who likes to watch TV.

Across from the Savannah on the southeastern side is the National Museum and Art Gallery, home to a permanent collection of 10,000 items in galleries focusing on art, social history, natural history, economic history, petroleum and geology, 19th century painter Michel-Jean Cazabon, as well as a small gallery dedicated to carnival arts.

Keshorn Walcott Toco Lighthouse

Named after the young javelin thrower from Toco who honed his Olympic gold medal-winning skills pelting mangoes, the lighthouse at Galera Point on the northeastern tip of the island is a dramatic spot. This is where the Caribbean Sea collides with the Atlantic, one turquoise, the other navy. It is said that the First Peoples jumped to their deaths from this point, rather than be captured by the marauding Spaniards. An outcrop of rocks at the top of the cliff offers knee-shaking views of the roiling waters below.

Written by Nazma Muller and Caroline Taylor

Posted by Nazma Muller

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